051119 Stanage Popular

Overview - A final attempt at a climbing weekend before the weather turns wet. Quite cold, but beautifully sunny, so straight to Stanage and straight onto the hard route for the day. Turns out it wasn't a good day for E2s, but still a good bit of exercise...

Gargolye Buttress (2* VS 4b):

Seconded Tim - A hard 4b move with a bit of a swing if you muck it up, but it is only one move. The move around onto the slab has no hands, and just involves standing up. Good balance training, but very easy above. Might need to lose a star and be a very easy VS 4c.

Black Hawk Bastion (2* E2 5c):

Failed - First started up the face beneath the hanging arete, then realised that the E2 goes up the inside corner, and the route I was on was E4 6a! Ooops. Oh well, just a little bit of pump to start an E2 with... Corner is easy, and the crux is the move out to the arete. Total head failure - I believe I could make it, but didn't feel prepared to commit to it. Aparantly it's more like a good E3 6a, which I could just about believe, but need more E2s to confirm it.

Eliminator (2* HVS 5b):

Led - I've following Paul up this before, but couldn't remember anything about it, and was insistant on trying to lead something! All the harder moves are long, but not really hard, and I realised halfway up that backing off an E2 straight onto an HVS means you get totally pumped well before the difficulty of the moves suggest. Tim seconded, swearing the whole way.